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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. But, tucked high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.